Synthetic Turf Installation Guide

Achieve professional results with our step-by-step walkthrough.

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Clear and Excavate. 

  • Begin by removing all existing grass and debris from the area
  • Excavate the soil to a depth of 4 inches to make room for your new base materials.

Step 2: Geotextile Barrier

Protect your Base.

Lay down a geotextile membrane to prevent weeds and keep your base layers stable. Measure and cut the fabric to fit your area, then secure it to the ground with nails.
  • Lay down a geotextile membrane to prevent weeds and keep your base layers stable.
  • Measure and cut the fabric to fit your area, then secure it to the ground with nails.
  • Pro Tip: Need more? We sell 3’ x 100’ geotextile rolls right on our website.

Step 3: The Primary Base

Structural Foundation.

  • Fill the excavated area with 3 to 4 inches of 0-¾" crushed stone.
  • Use a rake to level the surface, then use a plate compactor to ensure a firm, stable foundation

Step 4: The Finishing Base

Smoothing the Surface.

  • Add a 1-inch layer of "rock dirt" (stone dust or fines). Level this layer carefully and compact it again.
  • This creates the ultra-smooth surface required for a flawless turf appearance

Step 5: Turf Acclimation & Layout

Relax the Fibers AND Precision Cutting.

  • Unroll your turf in the sun for at least 1–2 hours before installation.This allows the backing to soften and the grass to recover its natural shape.
  • Lay the turf into position. Flip the edges over and use a sharp utility knife (or X-Acto) to cut the turf from the back, following the stitch rows for a clean edge

Step 6: Seamless Seaming

The Perfect Join.

If your project requires multiple pieces, use Trylawn turf’s Special Glue and Seam Tape:
  • Place the seam tape under the two edges and nail the tape to the ground.
  • Crucial: Ensure the "grass yarn" (the direction the blades lean) is facing the same way on both pieces.
  • Apply the glue to the tape and spread it evenly with a notched trowel. Fold the turf edges back over the glue, press down firmly, and allow to dry completely.

Step 7: Securing & Finishing

Secure the Perimeter.

  • Nail down the edges of the turf using 6-inch non-galvanized nails, spaced 6 inches apart along the entire perimeter.

Step 8: Final Brush

Brush.

  • Use a stiff-bristled broom or power brush to brush the entire surface of the lawn. This helps to stand the grass fibers upright and gives it a fuller, more natural look.

COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID

Refine Your Process. Elevate Your Finish.

Use this quick checklist to prevent common issues during application and installation.

The "Visible Seams" Problem

Consequence:

You can see a clear line where two pieces of turf meet.

  • Prevention: Always check that the grass "grain" is facing the same way before gluing.
  • The Fix: Use a "carpet kicker" or your hands to pull the pieces into a perfect 1/8" gap (matching the internal stitch spacing of the turf) before the glue dries. If the glue is already dry, you can try to "tease" the fibers out of the seam with a flathead screwdriver or a stiff brush to hide the line.

Wrinkles or "Bubbling"

Consequence:

The turf looks wavy or has raised bubbles, especially when it gets hot.

• The Fix : Pull up the nails on one side, wait for a warm day, and use a carpet stretcher to pull the turf tight again.

• Re-nail it every 6 inches. (Where the bubble is located to flat it down.)

• The weight of the infill helps "pin" the turf down and prevents it from moving.

Sinking Spots or Divots

Consequence:

The lawn looks beautiful at first but starts to develop "potholes" or uneven areas after a few weeks.

  • The Fix: This is a tough one. You usually have to pull back the turf, add more "rock dirt" (stone dust) to the low spot, compact it firmly, and then relay the turf.

  • Prevention is key: always use a vibrating plate compactor and dampen the stone with water while compacting.

Poor Drainage (Puddles)

Consequence:

Water sits on top of the grass for hours after a rainstorm.

  • The Fix: Check the perimeter to ensure water has a place to run off. If the problem is the base, you can sometimes improve it by using a long "turf spike" to punch deeper holes through the turf and base into the soil below, though a full base replacement is the only permanent fix for severe drainage issues.

Weeds Growing at the Edges

Consequence:

Weeds are popping up around the perimeter or through the seams.

  • The Fix: For surface weeds, simply pull them out or use a standard weed killer (it won't hurt the turf).

  • For edge issues, ensure the turf is tucked tightly against your border or nail it more frequently to "seal" the edge against the ground.